Changes to the Floor to Narrow the Building

To accommodate the narrowing, remove the flange meant to position the wall panel you are moving.  I found it helpful to add scrap styrene to take its place when I assembled the walls to the floor, but that can wait until final assembly.  You may want to remove the portion of the floor that would stick out under the moved wall.  It looks funny otherwise.

The grooves in the floor are meant to take code 83 rail.  I removed some of the ties from the middle of a section of code 83 flex track, and used Walthers Goo to fix them in place.  I use code 100 rail normally, but rather than make custom rail joiners to mate the two, since the speeds of the cars would be slow, I just filed down the top of the code 100 where it met the code 83.

I filled in the unused rail grooves with styrene.  I used sprue material, but in retrospect I think it would have been worth the effort to find and purchase styrene strips the right size.

It seems to me if a locomotive is rolling a car into the building, and the door at the far end is closed, that there should be something to prevent the car from striking the closed door.

I designed a removable carstop for the through track, using Plastruct H column "sunk" in the floor, with an I-beam to block the path.  There are two alignment pieces fastened to the bottom of the I-beam, and a loop on the top so it can be removed by the overhead crane.  I used a standard bumper on the stub end track.  Be sure to leave room for employees to get past the bumpers to the other side of the car.

When you are done detailing the floor, you can either paint the floor a uniform gray, or use a different gray to simulate concrete that was poured at a different time.  The bumpers should probably receive white and black or yellow and black safety stripes.  The rail grooves should be painted black after the rail is installed.

I attempted to "distress" the surface of the floor, to simulate the chipped concrete found in such facilities, but I found placing the floor upside down on coarse sandpaper and pounding the other side with a hammer didn't produce the effect I wanted.  Instead, it warped and buckled the floor.  Don't do it that way.  I suggest you use the spatter paint technique I developed for the outside walls.